© 2018 Shir Naeh

CONSTRUCTION & VOLUME

My starting point was the "Shaping Fashion” of Cristobal Balenciaga. Balenciaga built shape but also let the fabric dictate and decide its natural shape, just like an architect. Accordingly, I started with volume, shape and structure in mind, but was still inspired to create a feminine silhouette of a beautiful woman.
I came across Nick Veasey's x-ray dresses which complimented Balenciaga's work, and inspired my project further. Veasey's drew attention to details that were otherwise unnoticeable to the naked eye - he helped me understand the structure behind the clean and smart shape of Balenciaga's garments.
I used the evening dress with the hidden corset as inspiration and discussion point on structure that looks simple, but has a hidden construction. 
I merged x-ray techniques and Naum Gabo’s works. Gabo's sculpture create an illusion of dynamic continuance of the space. In my design, tried to create a garment which will represent effortless sculpting, and will examine how to wear the garment.
I wanted to take Naum Gabo’s motives, such as lines which show us where everything starts by leading the eye and to merge those with Balenciaga’s famous volume - but this time, not "hiding" the complicated construction as the great Balenciaga did, but the opposite, to present it similar to an x-ray shot.
During the process I draped with paper cuttings in geometrical forms similar to Gabo’s work. Throughout the draping process, I tried to create Balenciaga's wide collar. The idea was to accentuate the female form by focusing on the most feminine element for me, the neck.
When the jacket is open, construction is created by the lines that the eyes put together, balancing elements at the back more than the front.
At the inner layers, I used visible corset elements, inspired by the x-ray. Although not bodycon, the silhouette is feminine and desirable.